The Indian food and Louis XIII cognac pairing, to be hosted once a month at Jamavar, The Leela Palace New Delhi, is everything extraordinary culinary experiences are made of. The Eaux-de-vie, Louis XIII, enhances subtle flavours in the predominantly Awadhi cuisine-inspired dining experience.
The Nimish Kesar and Phool Dessert, a winter delicacy in some parts of northern India, tasted like I had swallowed a cloud… Or what a pillowy soft cloud may taste like. A froth of milk flavoured with kesar (saffron), lightly sprinkled with crushed nuts, khoya (thickened milk), and a sliver of silver. If you could eat clouds, it would have to be Nimish, I thought, as I took a little teeny tiny sip of Louis XIII cognac after a spoonful.
The flavours of the world’s most exquisite cognac infused it with an ambrosial quality — honeyed cloud, maybe?
Image: Courtesy Louis XIII and The Leela Palace New Delhi
The evening to introduce a few guests to Louis XIII Gastronomy, which made its global debut at The Leela Palace New Delhi, had just ended on the highest octave.
Malo Le Mestre, the brand ambassador of Louis XIII cognac in India prefers to use the moniker, “world premiere”.
But I am hurrying the narrative rather than letting it unfold like the aroma of Louis XIII cognac and the subtle sweetness of fluffy Nimish unfurl as you spoon and sip.
The launch of Louis XIII Gastronomy
On a glamorous evening at Jamavar, under the chandeliers that define the restaurant, Louis XIII cognac’s Mestre and Shamsher Ahmed, the Masterchef of the restaurant, introduced Louis XIII Gastronomy to guests.
For the first time in the history of Louis XIII cognac, two chefs — Roumald Feger, the executive chef of Maison Rémy Martin and Masterchef Shamsher — explored the flavourful pairings of rich Awadhi Indian food and the smooth-as-Nimish cognac in a collaboration that brought forth unexplored facets and flavours of Louis XIII.
The rare experience, to be hosted once a month at The Leela Palace New Delhi, can be booked beginning November 2022 (the first one is on November 25). Masterchef Shamsher calls it an exploration of not just Louis XIII but also of new ideas and experiences of a cuisine that has come to be known for its lushness and rich intensity. If you do decide to book the experience, expect the good chef to break out into poetry at some point in the evening.
While the Masterchef talked about each flavour and experience, Malo took us through Louis XIII’s tasting notes — flowers, fruits, subtle spice and somewhat nutty, but all of it smooth as it glides down my gullet.
The next morning, over a cup of cappuccino in the more clinical conference room of The Leela Palace New Delhi, Malo speaks about the reasons for launching Louis XIII Gastronomy. “Louis XIII is not just a spirit brand; it is a lifestyle brand as well. We have been thinking of launching gastronomy for a while now. We were looking for an excellent pairing experience. At Louis XIII, we think a century ahead. Each decanter is the life achievement of generations of Cellar Masters. Since its origins in 1874, each generation of Cellar Master selects from our cellars the most precious Eaux‐de‐vie for Louis XIII. A 148 years later, Louis XIII keeps adding to the legacy of its visionary creator Paul Emile Rémy Martin with innovative experiences. So obviously, we had to wait for the right moment, find the right place, the right country, the right person, the right chef, and the right partner.”
Malo is convinced he has found the right partner in Masterchef Shamsher and The Leela Palace New Delhi. The collaboration took nine long months of experimentation by chefs Feger and Shamsher — playing with flavours and getting the pairing just right — to fructify. The fact that the two chefs worked over digital platforms and calls, rather than in person, and that Masterchef Shamsher had to tweak the flavours a bit and work on the art of plating (French cuisine without beautiful plating is like Awadhi cuisine without its spices) lengthened the process.
Here are four reasons you must book a Louis XIII Gastronomy experience
- Masterchef Shamsher is extremely knowledgeable about Indian cuisine. Malo muses, “It was important for me to ensure that we work with someone with a large and deep knowledge of Indian cuisine, who would take us on a journey through not just aromas and time, but also space (Note: I failed to mention that Malo, himself, can be rather poetic, like most French people).”
- The opportunity to premiere the experience with Indian cuisine. “We have a strong link with India that goes back not just decades, but even centuries. The experience is a lovely way to showcase this strong relationship. Also, the gastronomy experience had to complement Louis XIII. Both, Indian cuisine, and Louis XIII have complex flavours,” he adds.
- The crazy passion that Indian and French people possess for food. Malo sounds bemused: “I have been here for three years, and I have realised that Indians and French talk about food in the same way. This means, while we are sitting at a table eating breakfast, we discuss what we must cook or eat for lunch and dinner, what we ate the day before, what we ate six months ago, and what will we eat for lunch tomorrow, even while we are appreciating what we are eating at that moment. Food is central to our existence. It is rare to see this level of passion to keep talking about food while you are eating.”
- The plating is exquisite. The flavours and the pairing are, of course, on point. But how do you plate Dal Makhani and Kathal Haleem, without piling them up on a plate? Kathal Haleem came to my table in a modern bowl while dal makhani was spread out magnificently on my plate.
The Louis XIII Gastronomy Menu
Image: Courtesy Louis XIII and The Leela Palace New Delhi.
Masterchef Shamsher has touched the pinnacle of his creativity with the menu he has put out for the culinary experience. I chose the vegetarian menu, and this is what I ate:
- Kale Patte ki Chaat served in the shape of a roundel, a pairing that introduces me to the smoky, nutty flavours of Louis XIII cognac.
- Gucci (mushrooms) and Yam Galouti kebabs, a combination made spicy by the fruity notes of Louis XIII cognac.
- Paneer Pukthan, which like its name (inspired by Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, a region on the border of Pakistan and Afghanistan, and drawing from its produce), is stuffed with apricots, dates, and raisins. The fruity, nutty flavours of Louis XIII cognac intensify the flavours of the dish in ways unimaginable.
- Millet Rab Soup is light and fresh and allows Louis XIII cognac to shine through.
- Kathal Haleem served with Dal-e-Jamavar, two bold flavour profiles that are creamy and mellow though infused with spices, a flavour hewed to perfection by a few sips of Louis XIII cognac.
- Nimish Kesar and Phool, the sweet winter delicacy, which, when paired with Louis XIII cognac makes my palate sing.
- Nougat and nut-crunch coins that pair perfectly with the nuttiness of Louis XIII cognac.
How to book the Louis XIII Gastronomy experience
- A limited number of dinners will be hosted at Jamavar, The Leela Palace New Delhi. The first dinner can be booked for November 25 and the last will be in March 2023.
- Dinner paired with 30ml of Louis XIII cognac is at Rs 30,000 + taxes per person.
- Dinner paired with 60ML of Louis XIII cognac is at Rs 50,000 + taxes per person.
- Dinner paired with a full decanter of 700 ml of Louis XIII cognac for up to eight guests is at Rs 4,50,000.
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