Siolim, in Goa, now has a charming roadside yakitori bar — Shiori — which does justice to spirits and serves up some delectable dishes as well.
In 1891, a street leading to Siolim jetty saw the construction of a single storey building. At the time, it was a warehouse selling essential goods to the village. Over the years, the space owned by the Moye family morphed into a hardware store in 1940, after closing down for seven years. Today, the space has a new look and purpose. It is now Shiori, a quaint roadside yakitori bar.
Step into Siolim’s Japan at Shiori
In real terms, Shiori is actually roadside: Step off the road and we enter Shiori. A bar occupies the central space, and the dining area has three parts: Facing the road, a cosy spot near the kitchen with a full-length mirror, and a narrow long room behind the bar. The walls are dark and sport the wear and tear expected from a century-old structure. Some portion exposes the underlying bricks, which we later learn have been done in the shape of the maps of different Japanese regions and cities.
Overhead is soft lighting, plants occupying corners, and framed images juxtaposing old ukiyo-e beauty portraits of women now sporting speech bubbles with quotes like ‘Did this dude really break up with me over scroll?’
Shiori: A joint venture from friends to food
Shiori is a joint venture between friends, Moyes brothers (who own the property) and Sahil Adwalpalkar of Adwalpalkar Construction and Hospitality. “I always wanted to open a restaurant,” says Nikhil Moye. “During my eight years in Delhi, I saw the arrival of yakitori. I had it in mind that I would open something similar.” He feels Korean food will soon become popular too. “I have a space for that too,” he laughs.
The idea was to build a bar in a quaint neighbourhood. “Siolim has that perfect kind of mixed audience from tourists to locals and travellers. And, it has a central location, close to areas like Morjim, Assagao, and Anjuna,” says Adwalpalkar. His reason for finalising the cuisine is simple: “The way Japanese food is coming up is very interesting.”
It is no coincidence that Shiori also sounds like Siolim if pronounced the way Goans do it.
Spicy salmon to zucchini skewers, Shiori has it all
Shiori’s menu is a mix of yakitori, sushi, ramen bowls; 30 per cent of it is Pan-Asian aimed at offering familiar flavours to Goans.
Image: Courtesy Shiori.
The yakitori has a healthy mix of vegetables, meat, and offal. There’s a juicy Bacon Wrapped Prawn, and soft and tender Chicken and Leek. Robata Grilled Chicken Heart Skewers are a surprise, with a nice chew, and a smoky sauce that gives it a glistening sheen. Grilled Red Snapper treats the fish delicately and with respect, offering it with a sweet sticky sauce.
The Teriyaki Pineapple Beef Tenderloin is a little chewy and doesn’t impress; the pineapple feels out of place. Stuff Squid Skewers lack punch. Grilled Asparagus Wrapped with Zucchini Skewers offers exactly that: Bland vegetables. The Tuna Carpaccio divides the table: While fresh, I feel it lacks character, whereas my dining companion enjoys the tangy punch from ponzu jelly; we both agree the fish needed to be sliced thinner. Spicy Salmon and Avocado Maki Roll redeems the sushi section, offering textural variety and nice spice notes.
In the mains, Chicken Ramen Bowl is soothing but again lacks punch. It feels as if the chef has held himself back on a few dishes instead of pushing the stronger flavours forward. Moye’s recommendation — 3 Chilli Chicken — is a treat that feels comfortingly familiar with a bite from the three different chillies used, and sweet, crisp, and juicy chicken. The meal ends with the sweetest treat: A Sticky Date Cake with a caramel-like and rich whiskey and toffee sauce.
It’s time for a Tokyo Nightcap
Around us, the conversation moves from manifesting energies for 2023, to the meaning of a real influencer. Overheard, the speakers belt out a typical Goan playlist of English pop numbers.
Where Shiori shines is in its bar programme created by a man who doesn’t occupy the social media limelight but is content to work in the shadows, mixologist Rohan Barbosa. He has created a short and sweet menu of drinks that are fun, playful, and definitely pretty (and have an abundance of coffee). Take the Dora Dora, which comes with an edible picture of the character — the drink is heavy on the bourbon with coffee making its slow appearance and mellowing into a faint sweetness (from Chocos).
Image: Courtesy Shiori.
Kung Fu Pandan is a smooth almond milk and coconut rum concoction that comes in a white mug — on being sipped, it slowly reveals a panda’s face. Mount Fuji 1707 is a refreshing rum drink, heavy on the citrus. The popular Gin and Tea marries gin with hibiscus tea for a bitter, sweet, and floral touch. We end our meal with two strong drinks: 1933 Diaries pairs the strong flavours of bourbon with coffee, and Tokyo Nightcap brings in bitterness with Campari and coffee.
Shiori wants to be a neighbourhood bar that would appeal to Goans and visitors. It succeeds in that it has a nice welcoming — if dark — vibe. The food is affordable and has some standouts, but it’s the drinks that make their mark on us.
Overall rating: ⭐⭐⭐.5 (Max: 5 stars)
Food: 3/5| Drinks: 4.2/5| Service: 4.5/5| Decor: 4/5| Vibe: 4/5| One dish we loved: 3 Chilli Chicken | One dish that didn’t work for us: Teriyaki Pineapple Beef Tenderloin
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