Kappa Chakka Kandhari’s Onam promotion this year is focussing on the Central Travancore Namboodiri sadya, since it resonates with Chef Regi Mathew’s own childhood experiences — and we’re not complaining.
If there’s one thing I’ve learnt in Kerala, it’s to always judge a sadya by its sambar and payasams. This is not a lesson I learnt overnight but after sampling Kerala’s extra-large banana leaf meal over many years and across different regions of the state. I’ve overheard guests diss wedding cooks even as they polish off 20-plus items on their leaf. That’s one reason Chef Regi Mathew (Culinary Director & Co-owner, Kappa Chakka Kandhari) is taking no chances. He has roped in a team of Namboodiri cooks from Puliyannoor in Kottayam district that’s home to the Puliyannoor Mahadeva Temple. This team will take on the laborious task of preparing the Onasadya at Kappa Chakka Kandhari in Bengaluru and Chennai for a three-day Onam promotion (September 6 to 8).
It was nostalgia that provided the spark for Kappa Chakka Kandhari (KCK) and brought accomplished chef and restaurateur Regi Mathew and his two partners — Augustine Kurian and John Paul, together. The restaurant takes its name from three ingredients unique to Kerala cuisine including the fiery Kandhari chilli; these three promoters have set out to recreate food memories that they reminisce from their childhood. “It’s the same nostalgia that is the cornerstone of our Onam food festival,” says Chef Regi. He looks back fondly at his Onam memories as a child: “Onam, Kerala’s harvest festival that celebrates the homecoming of Kerala’s mythical King Mahabali is always a time of togetherness. It was the one day when people from across communities dined together and local ingredients were always the stars.”
A sadya is only served on banana leaves. Fresh banana leaves are packed with a natural antioxidant called polyphenols. When hot food is served on the leaf, the antioxidants are released and absorbed in the food, which provides great health benefits. The leaf is also rich in antibacterial properties, Vitamin A, calcium, and carotene. The tip of the leaf is always placed towards the left side. The leaf of Njalipoovan or Yelakki banana tree is the preferred option. Hyperlocal ingredients are not just the hallmark of an Onasadya in Kerala but have also defined the menu at KCK. For instance, the restaurant only uses Marayoor jaggery for its unique flavour profile.
A typical sadya includes 20 to 30 dishes and the list of dishes and the serving sequence varies from region to region and also across communities. “At KCK we are showcasing a Central Travancore Namboodiri sadya, since it resonates with my own childhood experiences,” says Chef Regi. The service sequence starts with ‘uppu’ (salt) that can be used to alter the dishes to suit individual palates and a banana. The sequence of service is usually left to right of your leaf. This is followed by an array of chips (usually fried in coconut oil) that includes sharkara varatty — my personal favourite — thick banana chips coated with jaggery and aromatic spices.
Most sadyas include achars or pickles. A favourite at most sadyas is inji puli — the goodness of ginger and tamarind cooked together with jaggery to add a sour, spicy and sweet taste to the sadya. Another unique dish is a pachadi (the pineapple pachadi — chopped pineapple and coconut cooked delicately and tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves — is a popular option) that’s eaten as a palate cleanser between courses. Local vegetables play out in multiple dishes from the subtly flavoured olan to a thoran (stir-fried vegetables) and an avial. The traditional Kerala Matta rice is the mainstay and is served in multiple courses with dishes like sambar, rasam and kalan. It’s the payasams that are the highlight and are often the acid test of the cook’s skills. KCK will serve four payasams and is also offering a special takeaway option for signature payasams like the palada — rice flakes slow cooked in cow milk, reduced and sweetened.
Kerala’s social landscape has changed dramatically over the decades but Onam remains a festival of togetherness and harmony and the Onasadya is at the heart of the celebration. I used to spend many summer school vacations in Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram that would coincide with Vishu, the New Year in Kerala. Back then many homes would make the 20-plus dishes that are served on the banana leaf from scratch. Today, wedding cooks and home chefs have taken over. But Onam remains a festival where families get together over a sadya. Chef Regi welcomes the explosion of Onam promotions across India but strongly believes that the important thing about Onam is togetherness. He believes that it doesn’t matter whether you enjoy your sadya at a restaurant or at home (KCK is also offering a Onasadya Feast in a Box that serves five persons), the important thing is to share the meal with friends or family.
Kappa Chakka Kandhari’s Onam promotion is on at Chennai and Bengaluru from September 6 to 8. Visit www.kckonam.com for information on takeaway and dine-in options and to book a table.
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