On a drive along a newly-launched terrain in the Trans-East Arunachal region, we discover a journey of a lifetime — brushed with some interesting folklore and a feat of adventures.
Our sturdy four-wheel drive rattled and wobbled along a mud track, leaving behind a thick trail of dust. It was a little past six in the evening, but the sun had already been long gone. The third day of my Arunachal Pradesh excursion, as a part of the state tourism department’s ‘Explore Beyond’ campaign, was close to an end. And we were still deep in the remote jungles of Namdapha National Park in the Changlang district, trying to speed our way out.
Fighting a fiery urge to reach the town, my heart held on to the soft longing to stay a bit longer amidst the remote wilderness. “We won’t stop anywhere till we cross the entrance to the national park and hit the main road. There are wild elephants in here who get easily triggered by vehicles moving in the dark. Sit tight,” our local driver interrupted my chain of thoughts.
I stared into the dark, as shadows of wild outcrops and towering trees danced in the dark outside my window. We had spent an entire day driving to the national park from Jairampur, navigating the steep rustic terrains, crossing numerous bridges and streams that drain into Namdapha River, and listening to the lore of the jungle. The 1,985-sq-km national park, I was told, is home to big cats including tiger, common leopard, snow leopard, and clouded leopard. And yet, no sighting.
But just when I decided to bury my hope, the tires screeched, our car grumbled and came to a sudden halt. A small leopard cub stopped to stare at the high-beam for a second and then, crossed the path, disappearing into the thick bushes as quickly as it had appeared out of nowhere! Capturing vignettes of life in this virginal, untouched state is both evocative and full of surprises, as I found out during my latest excursion.
A wild ride in the East
‘Explore Beyond’ was all about four women bikers traversing a newly-launched, untouched terrain of Eastern Arunachal. The four-day biking expedition was flagged off by CM Pema Khandu from the banks of the Siang at Pasighat and wound up at the Orange Festival in Dambuk, covering Namsai, Jairampur, and Miao along the way. The idea was to showcase the state as a safe destination for solo women travellers, while introducing the new, unseen sites to the world.
A beautiful Ponung dance by women of Adi tribe followed by a breakfast of fresh bakes and local dessert gave the expedition a flying start. Our adventure began as soon as the ride was flagged off and, Iranian-Indian ace biker Maral Yazarloo; India’s fastest female motorbike racer Kalyani Potekar; solo adventure tourer Candida Louis; and local rider Tenzin Metoh; zoom past us on their Ducati Multistrada bikes. For next four days, we followed these ‘leading ladies’ on the arterial route that stretches along the Trans-Eastern Arunachal terrain, hugging the blue Mishmi and Patkai Bum hills and overlooking the raging Siang almost for the entirety of its length.
I, a city girl, love my occasional romantic rendezvouses with the mountains, enough to accept them with all their snags and challenges. So, my days were spent soaking in the beautiful outdoors, road-tripping through breathtaking landscapes and bucolic, winding routes, letting the wind mess up my hair, and getting lost in the pretty hues of the ever-changing sky. From watching Kongmu Kham or the Golden Pagoda glisten in a soft golden glow from the melting sun in Namsai, to gorging on local dishes of the Khampti cuisine, to having a nerve-wracking river-rafting experience in Bomjir, the wild side of Arunachal that I explored, was as thrilling as it gets.
Where time slows down
If part of my Arunachal expedition was an adventurous thriller, part of it was a breezy romcom set to an acoustic love track. While being constantly on the road for days and dealing with super-early sunsets and sunrises took a toll on my body clock, visits to quaint hidden villages, in between, dropped in as much-needed respite.
With barely 250 locals of Tangsa tribe calling it home, Rima in Changlang district slows the time down for you. The sight of humble bamboo houses on stilts with thatched roofs, gorgeous orange orchards, and a quiet gompa, paired with the welcoming smiles from locals instantly warmed my heart. The local Tikhak family let me in their home, where I saw how apong or local rice beer is made, while sitting by the fireplace in the middle of the large central chamber and relishing grapefruit plucked fresh from the tree.
Upon reaching Bomjir, some of us opted to break away from the convoy and head to nearby attractions. Parshuram Kund in Lohit district, is your quintessential pilgrimage destination filled with religious and spiritual fervour. A two-and-a-half scenic drive from Bomjir, the holy pond requires a descend of almost 350 steps before one could wash off their sins in it. But the two imposing temples en-route and the local folklore of Sage Parshuram makes it worth a visit.
Speaking of lore, at the Indo-China border above 2,655 m above sea level, Mayodia Pass gets its name from a Nepali girl who got lost in the snow and could never be traced! The pass is popularly known as “the secret Shangri-La of Arunachal Pradesh” and is famous for its breathtaking panoramas and freezing temperatures during winter. Harbouring 680 species of birds, many of them endemic, the surrounding Mishmi Hills in central Arunachal Pradesh delights birdwatchers with rare sightings.
After the whirlwind adventure through the tricky terrain, the Orange Festival at Dambuk in Lower Dibang Valley offered a pleasant cultural immersion to round off the four-day drive. The festival brought together adventure sports like zip-lining, dirt biking, river rafting, and camping along with local foods and an impressive line-up of musicians like Big Mountain, Swanky Tunes, and Kayan all under one roof! As I finally let my hair down and danced my last night away in Arunachal, my spirits were buoyed by apong and the exhaustion from the drive was long forgotten.
When to go
From balmy summer to pleasant winter, this Northeastern gem gives you a perfect holiday throughout the year. October to April is the most ideal time.
Where to stay
Donyi Hango Camp Resort, Pasighat: The tented cottages at the property offer you a decent stay amidst nature with a queen-size bed, an attached bathroom, and an outdoor seating space. The site also has an inhouse restaurant and a bar. Starts from INR2,200 per night. Book here.
Homestays in Jairampur: Don’t expect luxurious resorts in the region. Since the terrain is fairly new for tourists, your best option is to pick one of the homestays or camping sites, which you can book by contacting the local authorities on the official tourism platform of Changlang district.
Zaktum Notko, Bomjir: Wake up to lush lawns and clear skies next to the calm Dibang River at Zaktum Notko in Bomjir. The resort is a welcome change with permanent facilities like tents with beds, cottages with toilets, running hot water, and a swanky dining-lounging space. Know more here.
How to get around
The nearest airport is in Dibrugarh, Assam, which is a three-hour drive (148 km) from Pasighat. The best way to travel is by road by booking a private taxi or driving your own car.
What to remember
You will need to apply for a permit to travel through Arunachal Pradesh. An Inner Line Permit (IPL) is required for Indian citizens and is valid for seven days. For foreign travellers, Protected Area Permit (PAP) is required, which is valid for 30 days. Apply here.
Read more.
Celebrating Sangken: Arunachal’s version of a water dousing fest!
In conversation with Tenzin Metoh: Racing ahead and exploring beyond the ordinary