Scouting around Old Delhi to sample Daulat Ki Chaat, we discover fascinating legends, classic flavours, and a collective culinary ingenuity among Indian halwais.
It wasn’t even noon yet, and Chandni Chowk’s narrow streets were already jam-packed. The air was a bit too bitter, and the gloomy sky was laden with thick grey clouds blocking out any hint of winter sun from reaching me that icy-cold January morning.
But none of that could even sparsely dim my excitement. Maybe because it was my maiden encounter with Daulat Ki Chaat, and my heart was set on making it count. Or maybe because I was accompanied by Anubhav Sapra, an avid culinary explorer and founder of the popular Delhi Food Walk, and so, I had nothing to worry about discovering the best spots to savour the iconic dish from Delhi 6.
It’s all in the name, really!
Just like everyone else, the name of the dish has intrigued me for as long as I can remember. The delicate, winter-only treat from Old Delhi remains shrouded in mystery when it comes to both its name and the process of making it.
You hear the word ‘chaat’, and your mind instantly wanders off to street-side stalls selling savoury-spicy snacks around the capital. But Daulat Ki Chaat, on contrary, is a light-as-air, delicate-as-dew dessert that melts in your mouth the moment you take a bite.
I shot the obvious, million-dollar question at Sapra, right after the moment we met. “Daulat Ki Chaat translates to ‘the snack of wealth’. There are many legends about how the 500-year-old dish came to be known as Daulat Ki Chaat. Some believe the man who created the dessert was called Daulat Ram. Others suggest that the rich chaat melts and disappears the moment it touches the tongue, much like the money in your pocket!” he explained as we waited at the Babu Ram’s stall in front of Sriram Jewellers in Dariba Kalan. Simply put, ‘daulat’ because the dish was ephemeral like wealth, ‘chaat’ because it can be licked clean off the plate.
Speaking of names, this quintessential Delhi favourite has many. Nimish in Lucknow, Malai Makhan in Kanpur, and Malaiyyo in Benaras — this foamy deliciousness has been eaten across northern India for centuries. One mouthful of the dessert, and I knew exactly why.
The cloudy, dewy froth quickly dissolved in my mouth, while the crumbles of mawa and bura (ground sugar) offered just the right amount of mild sweetness. The scents of kewra and saffron lingered on my tongue for a long after. Solid mouthfuls, as I had expected, were not a part of the equation. Just the tickle of scented, airy foam that comes and goes in a wink like magic!
The magic makers
The preparation process, however, isn’t just as easy-breezy. To make the foamy, subtly sweet Daulat Ki Chaat, Babu Ram tells us, his family wakes up before the dawn breaks every winter morning. Fresh milk is traditionally chilled overnight and then hand-churned in giant cauldrons for hours to form clouds of foam. Sugar and saffron are added, and the delicacy is stored in a large paraat on ice to retain the taste and texture for the day. It is one of the oldest and finest examples of molecular gastronomy we can find in the history of Indian cuisine.
“You will find Daulat Ki Chaat only in Delhi’s Shahjahanabad area from October to late February every year. These vendors are originally from Moradabad, and come to live in Sitaram Bazaar throughout the winter only to sell this unique dessert. If you must pick one, Babu Ram is your guy — expect perfect consistency and balanced flavours. Khemchand, who stands in Kinari Bazaar with his stall, also makes it well. But if you wish to devour its flavours to the fullest, try Gupta Ji’s shop,” said Sapra as we walked through the dingy lanes towards Sitaram Bazaar.
Gupta Ji’s in Sitaram Bazaar’s Arya Samaj Gali is the only shop that sells Daulat Ki Chaat. The dainty, clean store in the narrow busy lane can easily go unnoticed. But loyal customers, like Sapra, who have been queuing up every winter for years now, know its way as the back of their hands. Understandably so. Gupta does it a bit differently.
Three different types of khoyas are used, and the texture is as fluffy as it gets. There’s a generous amount of chopped pistachios and the flavours are rich when he serves it to you, just like his father and grandfather did before him, in little donas or kulhads (earthen cups).
In a fancier world
The best way to enjoy Daulat Ki Chaat is to navigate through the streets of Old Delhi as it adds a little nostalgia and excitement to the whole experience. But if you desire to sample the dessert in a swankier, more comfortable setting, there are quite a few restaurants that have it on their menus. Celebrated chef Manish Mehrotra makes his decked-up version which you can try at Indian Accent. Or drive down to ROOH New Delhi at Ambawatta One in Mehrauli, like we did.
Ras Malai 2.0 on ROOH’s winter menu is their version of the dish where an airy meringue floats atop a bed of thick flavoured rabari. The meringue or rasmalai is super foamy and is garnished with nuts and silver foil.
“The age-old flavours of India are at the heart of ROOH. The modern Indian restaurant chain has always worked around the concept of reinventing and reinterpreting classic Indian flavours for the global audience, in terms of both technique and presentation,” further explains Rahul Bhambri, the owner of ROOH New Delhi.
Where to eat Daulat ki Chaat in Delhi
Babu Ram opposite Sriram Jewellers, Dariba Kalan (9654331721, 9654261219)
Dhani Ram Rakesh Gupta Arya Samaj Gali, Sitaram Bazar (9899787312, 9999185476)
Khemchand opposite Naughara Jain Temple, Kinari Bazar (9811523861)
ROOH New Delhi H-5/1, First Floor, Ambawatta One, Mehrauli (73036 00299)
Indian Accent The Lodhi, Pragati Vihar (+91 11 6617 5151)
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