An invitation to a meal created by someone heading the team at a Michelin-star restaurant is always both intimidating and exciting. At Tresind Mumbai, Chef Himanshu Saini surprises with a modern simple.
There’s no fuss or foie gras at Tresind, Mumbai. For Corporate Chef Himanshu Saini, it’s simply about creating tasty Indian food that’s presented well.
Degustation or tasting menus are relatively new to India, with perhaps the likes of Masque, Ekaa, etc. opting for it in addition to ala carte offerings. Regardless, Tresind is happy to skip traditional. It’s not to be confused with the Michelin-star Tresind Studio in Dubai though. Helmed by Head Chef Sarfaraz, the Mumbai outlet recently graced the BKC business district.
While the promise of 14 courses can seem daunting and promising in equal parts, Chef Himanshu is quick to clarify.
“If you ask me it’s just 10 courses. Not all dishes can be courses, like a single pani-puri isn’t a course. The first few bites you have aren’t courses, nor the last one. It’s just for people to understand because they count each dish as a course. I think in time people will adapt to it, given that there aren’t too many restaurants focused on creating tasting menus,” he says.
With that in mind, we began the meal in a theatrical rose-scented smoke fashion. The servers inform the table of the breakdown, with the first four courses being the equivalent of an amuse-bouche.
The menu is designed to showcase the intricacies of Indian cuisine and champion its regional diversity. And it starts off on a decent note, with an Arugula Pani-puri (served with preserved pear and feta cheese), Dal-vada (with carrot kanji and black lime pickle), and Raw banana varuval to name a few. It’s important to note here that I’m using the shorthand for what was a complex harmony of several elements.
For instance, with the raw banana varuval, the pairing with a coconut lassi and curry leaf chutney made for a highly visual and deliciously tangy yet balanced plate.
From here on, we enter the actual appetizer zone. An easy favourite of mine here was the Khari with slow-cooked lamb, placed atop some nihari curry. It’s delicious and warm, and the spices brilliantly hero the tender meat without overpowering it. A few more such bites would’ve left me more than satisfied, until of course, the remaining courses came along. While a little liquid nitrogen comes to our table every now and again in the form of cocktails and such, it’s unnecessary theatrics that simply interferes with an otherwise earnest meal.
Surprises across the courses
What came as a pleasant surprise of refreshing flavour was the Khandvi ice cream. Served with pickled papaya and chilli, this palate cleanser was much-needed and oh-so-effective. Sweet-savoury has always been a personal bias, and this ‘course’ bought into that nicely, leaving behind a clean plate.
In addition to being satisfying, what each course at Tresind does is highlight the use of simple ingredients. Chef Himanshu adds, “It’s a simple kitchen using humble ingredients. Over the years the philosophy has changed from being modernistic to just serving modern Indian food. While it might be simple for those who have grown up here, people abroad might eat something like a curry and roti/bread separately instead of together. Indian food is very complex, so the idea here is not to elevate it but to simplify it. It’s not about making it cool, but about making it approachable, and not being too full after eating it.”
Which is another unusual observation we make at the table. Nine courses in, we’ve eaten a healthy amount, yet are still excited for what’s to come. Fortunately, the mains more than oblige, with one of them winning the degustation for me.
Tasty, yet light Indian food
The Meat Kachori dish easily has the most elements of all courses. It also perhaps demonstrates the deft techniques of Chef Himanshu’s team and their careful control of spice use. Served alongside mutton rassa, masala brussel sprouts, missi roti, popcorn butter, and chimichurri chutney – it’s a delight. You can create infinite permutations and combinations of bites in search of the perfect one. Although I could save you some trouble and advise the roti, rassa, and popcorn butter. That popcorn butter alone, I could’ve definitely shown a good time.
In spite of that spectacular course, it was the Khichdi of India that stood out. Where most ‘gourmet restaurants’ shy away from serving the humble dish, Tresind’s stepped it up and offered an inspired version.
Using spices that represent all the states of India, the khichdi also espouses the chef’s bringing back of gueridon service. The chef or server informs you about each ingredient’s origin before throwing it into an increasingly delicious-smelling pot. Finally, it’s all stirred in and left for your indulgence. I’m not kidding, it’s the fanciest yet most heart-warming plate of khichdi I’ve ever had.
As for how inspiration hit, Chef Himanshu says, “I think we started off with the dish in Dubai with about 17 ingredients. Of course, it was a bit over the top. We used to cook it in a mirror with that many columns, and that’s where the dish evolved from.”
Three times the dessert fun
Rounding off a continuously impressive meal were three dessert courses. The first being Textures of Milk, a curious-looking pristine white mound with malai burrata, fermented milk ice cream and the like. It’s simple, easy, and not too sweet. Next came the Filter coffee cornetto, served with chocolate ganache and a mouthwatering salted caramel ice cream. The enemy of great is good, and this was a good dessert. The paan stone was explosive in our mouths, and definitely a great way to end the meal.
So with an increasing shelf of accolades, how much has Chef Himanshu’s philosophy at Tresind altered?
He laughs a little and says, “With expectations come responsibility. A few years back we were doing things for fun or just to be cool. I’m talking about 5-6 years back, I laughed at myself as to what I was doing. As we’re growing, we’re becoming more responsible and understanding. There are a lot of young chefs and people looking up to me, chatting with me, etc. So I can’t really make bad decisions.”
What hits home about the food at Tresind is its successful attempt at reimagining. The flavours aren’t always surprising, but the perspective definitely is. And that’s Chef Himanshu’s win.
Overall rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Max: 5 stars)
Food: 8/10
Drinks: 8/10
Service: 9/10
Interiors/Décor: 7/10
Vibe: 7/10
One dish we loved: Khichdi of India
One dish that didn’t work for us: Dal Vada
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