The sun, the sea, and the swaying palm trees… Here’s a part of South Goa for you, replete with the food, culture, and very ethos of Goa. Explore to your heart’s content, and we know you’ll come back for more.
Goa is a lot more than we give it credit for. Of course, there are the beaches, the shacks, the party places, the whole vibe… However, there’s also the Goa that you can enjoy peacefully, when you relish—and cherish—each moment. So here’s a sliver of that part of south Goa, which will be memorable for you, forever.
The Goan Kitchen (TGK)
Well known for its revival of delicacies from the Luso Goan Culinary Cookbook, with a Goan and Hindu culinary heritage, patrons can pre-order party specials or takeaway from the daily repertoire at its outlet in Margao. For those who seek a taste of gourmet cuisine redolent of the past century in Goa, this is it. Its kitchen in Loutolim customizes the complete experience. The multi-course sit-down meal regales your taste buds with authentic flavours.
With the fading monsoons, TGK offers luncheon and high tea experiences. And if you are ordering in, the menu perfectly matches the Heritage Goa Concert (a peep into the dance, music, cuisine, and Indo-Portuguese heritage that makes Goa so special). Add to that the Sounds from Goa (a platform that connects you with the sounds, songs, and experiences of Goa)—comprising soulful, melancholy opera from Portugal, a ‘Fados’ recital, and traditional dances to lilting music—and your TGK feast is complete. Obviously, TGK is immensely popular for an ancestral Goan experience in heritage homes.
TGK at-a-glance…
From Orchata — a decadent crushed refreshing almond cooler once served at aristocratic wedding banquets — to rare dishes inaccessible in commercial outlets, TGK has it all. Their popular Rissóis de Camarão features a creamy inner core with a flavour burst of the ‘manos’ prawns. The extensive 200-dish menu provides an immersive traditional lunch that you can choose from by pre-booking. The meal is punctuated with insights to understand the nuances of the vast repertoire.
A tip for the savouries — do have a shot at the Pastéis. These ‘Empadinhas’ are a burst of a delectable prawn filling in smooth red masala unveiled through bites of a crusty pastry shell. And of course, dessert lovers can try the Dedos de Dama —literally translated as ‘fingers of the dame’, another ornately decorated wedding dessert that is almost extinct, made from cashew paste, coconut, with a drooling sticky caramel coating — and the Pastéis de Nata, a circle of baked custard heaven. Small wonder then that TGK is the choice to partake a slice of lifestyle that well-heeled Goans enjoyed. The best part is that TGK employs local women in the kitchen — from the wee waking hours — and accommodates their schedules.
The outlet at Margao has a daily lunch offering home staples like Ukde Tandu (boiled red local rice). It’s your lucky day if you catch a seasonal special like the delicious moringa leaf bhaji topped with jackfruit seeds for an earthy nut flavour. Apart from its many unusual desserts and merene (teatime snacks), the outlet menu in daily rotation features the sweet snack tradition of Goans, highly nutritious, and laborious Atol, Filos, Mandos, Coyloyo, Pan Polle, and ‘Hole’, a rice paste steamed with palm jaggery and coconut in pyramids stitched with a coconut broomstick, to name a few.
TGK has culled pastes and pickles that coat your palate with nostalgia as well as the essence of home staples such as Kalchi Kodi—literally translating to yesterday’s curry—and Balchao Butter, starter fillers for Forminhas or tart shells. For those who would like to take the taste back or gift someone, TGK curates hampers as well.
Venue: 18, Pereira Plaza, Opposite Old Hospicio Hospital, Margao, Goa
The South Goa coastline
The South Goan coastal strip stretching from Betalbatim to Cavelossim is pristine. You can have your pick from the rejuvenating connected coastline that runs on—right from Betul further south, which is a treat to explore, to Palolem that has won many hearts with its silky unspoiled sands and exciting culinary ventures.
Further to the south of Palolem and Patem is a tropical paradise at its magical best. The Butterfly Beach in Canacona is valued for its secluded picture-postcard perfection. It has sunsets that will truly mesmerize you. No prizes for guessing how it gets its name, but the absolute showstopper has to be the multitude of butterflies it attracts. We hope this idyllic secret stays for a while but for those who visit, you can’t miss the jaw-dropping butterfly shape and the winged ones that dot the entire island. Dolphin watching from its cove-like green fringed beach is what gets it its ‘honeymoon beach’ reputation. For those who want more, there is canoeing and rock climbing.
My personal favourite is a toss between Utorda, Benaulim, and Sernabatim. The Utorda beach is now dotted with hospitality options like Kenilworth, an all-time sea-food delight sea-front restaurant ZeeBop, and upmarket wellness resorts. Benaulim’s tranquillity beckons you to be an early riser. While you may want to patronise one of the many interesting shacks that dot its coastline, the shacks clear up the reclining chairs in the evening to make way for a dance floor surrounded by candlelit tables. For those who’d like to make Benaulim a day trip, you can browse through cultural artefacts too. Victor Hugo Gomes’ passion and precious collection over decades of restoration of traditional tools has yielded the Goa Chitra Museum. A must-visit.
Hot air balloon, anyone?
It doesn’t get better than revelling in the sights of the cerulean ocean as you gently soar in the sky. Take an early morning flight at 2,000 feet above terra firm in a hot air balloon from the launch pad in Assolda in Quepem. Soak in the liberating feeling as you look down on the beauty of creation.
This is what a bird’s eye view is all about, views of lush fields, valleys, and the spectacular Arabian Sea dressed in its natural finery. You can get a good deal online at various sites.
A walk on the wild side…
Goa has nature at its best, amidst wildlife and waterfalls that take your breath away. The biggest in Goa, Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary, is accessible through Palolem. This drive to the far end of south-east Goa is a bounty of natural beauty. Hosted in the Sanguem taluka, the forest area along with Quepem and Canacona are areas that my grandfather, a forest officer, frequented till his retirement in the early ’60s. From all accounts, this paradise used to be a land of medicinal plants, scenic waterfalls, and wildlife.
The good news is that it still is. The sanctuary is the abode of a variety of animals, four-horned antelope, black sloth bears, bison, boars, squirrels, and leopards. You could do well by booking into Postcard Hideaway Netravali and enjoy the misty mornings.
Further down the southern tip of Goa is one of the most protected areas, the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary. It is rich in diverse flora and fauna. Embraced by mountains and dense forests, the sanctuary holds a wealth of exploratory possibilities. For the adventurous trekker, the forest department encourages eco-tourism. Accommodation is available at very reasonable rates. The famous temple of Parshurama, who is said to have created Goa, is located near the Rest House.
Waterfall sighting, and turtle spotting at Galgiba and Agonda beaches are some of the many adventures. You might find cycling a good way to get around.
Re-imagining Goan Cuisine at Cavatina
While at Benaulim, Cavatina by Avinash Martins is the region’s, and Goa’s, culinary crown that has put not just South Goa but the entire tiny state on the food connoisseurs’ map. This is the restaurant that discerning diners love. Cavatina’s cuisine thinks local and executes it with global flair as the young chef seeks to woo the world with his glocal signatures. His vision to present his interpretation of ‘Reimagining Goan Cuisine’ derives from seasons and nature.
Chef Avinash pairs wines with coastal classics such as smoked mackerel. The rustic prep mimics what was a home staple once; the fresh catch filled with the aroma of the sea is buried and smoked in the earth on a bed of hay. Imagine Jackfruit Sorpotel! It is the ultimate sacrilege tamed into delicious submission by Chef Avinash. This delightful dish harvests the best of the seasonal fruit in a dish that is ideal for not just vegans but lovers of good food as well. A spirited, wood-smoked Cafreal reminds me of the aromas that wafted out of the outhouse kitchens of yore. The feel-good factor is that Chef Avinash’s enterprise sustains the ecosystem while offering a nouvelle twist to his native roots.