Let the charms of these iconic vessels take you back to an era of elegance and grandeur as you glide down Lake Lucerne in style.
While we are always praises for the excellent railway system in Switzerland, not enough has been said about its network of boats. A multitude of lakes nestled in the Alpine valleys spells a variety of scenic journeys. Whether you use a boat to get from one place to another, undertake a themed circular cruise to enjoy the experience, or charter a boat for a celebratory event, this is a much-recommended way to relax and appreciate the Swiss countryside.
One of the most scenic routes for boat journeys in Switzerland is the one which connects the city of Lucerne to several beautiful towns and ends in Flüelen. Fifteen modern motorboats and five gorgeous paddle steamers crisscross Lake Lucerne in summer and each stop is the gateway to a stunning destination.
Exploring Switzerland by boat
It’s been a particular pursuit of pleasure on my part to try and include at least one of these routes on every visit to Switzerland. My first experience was on the Wilhelm Tell Express (now called the Gotthard Panorama Express) which involves a three-hour steamboat journey to Flüelen followed by a panoramic train ride on the historical Gotthard route to Ticino. The stunning views, excellent wining and dining, and the ease of travel make this a really memorable journey.
On another trip to Switzerland, I journeyed from Lucerne to the picturesque Alpnachstad, from where you can take the cog-wheel funicular or even walk up to the top of the stunning Mount Pilatus. This is a day trip like few others and one to put in your bucket list. I sailed on the Unterwalden (maiden voyage in 1902), the only one that can go under the low Acheregg bridge southwest of Lucerne to Alpnachstad. I’m told this is thanks to several technical innovations that allow the funnel and wheelhouse to be hydraulically lowered. Watching this technological marvel was just as fascinating as the fabulous scenery en route.
Most recently, after a fabulous meal at the two Michelin-starred restaurant Sens in the vintage village of Vitznau, I boarded the paddleboat steamer named Uri for an evening cruise to Lucerne.
Of the five historic boats, the Uri is the oldest paddle steamer in Switzerland, launched on Lake Lucerne on May 8, 1901, and has been officially designated as a Historic Mechanical Engineering Landmark by the American Society of Mechanical Engineers. The Uri’s enclosed panorama restaurant on the upper deck makes it the only steamer suitable for winter operations. The amazing first-class salon in ornate Neo-Rococo style has wooden carvings and hand-painted ceilings. Travelling on this historic steamboat at sunset was a journey of a lifetime.
The spiralling seagulls, the serenity on the lake, and the spectacular sunset gave great joy, but it made me dwell deeper on how there’s a lot more to the steamboats and their destinations.
Apparently, it was as far back as 1835, that a merchant named Casimir Friedrich Knörr surprised the residents of Lucerne, when he announced his intention to construct a mighty paddle steamer and establish a shipping company for the transport of goods and passengers. The historic boats have been plying this route since then and each one is rich with heritage and hand-crafted luxury.
A representative of the Lake Lucerne Navigation Company (SGV AG), the company that runs the boats in Switzerland, recounts the history, “At one point, there were plans to replace all steamers with more economical motor vessels, but the local population rebelled and established the preservation society ‘Dampferfreunde Vierwaldstättersee’. This group not only became a widespread public movement, but also an important lobby and advocacy group for the preservation of the last five paddle steamers.”
The Dampferfreunde have since supported the shipping company with fundraising for the overhaul and tasteful restoration of each remaining steamboat. Thanks to the small and large donations of thousands of steamboat enthusiasts, this remarkable piece of Swiss history has been successfully preserved and represents a genuine, nostalgic attraction for visitors from nearby or far away.
The ‘newest’ of these steamboats, the Stadt Luzern, which is dubbed the Queen of Lake Lucerne, has led SGV’s impressive fleet since 1928. From transporting Swiss Army General Henri Guisan and the entire Swiss Army officer corps in 1940 to Evita Perón, the wife of Argentinian president Juan Perón, in 1947, to Queen Elizabeth II in May 1980, the stately boat has had many illustrious passengers. Its recent refit and refurbishment in 2021 have restored it to its former fabulousness.
The Schiller, built in 1906, was named after the famed German poet PS Schiller. Its tall funnel, the bright red paddle wheels powered by a Sulzer steam engine, and the Art Nouveau décor and wood panelling in the first-class salon on the main deck give the boat ride a glamourous feel.
The Gallia, built in 1913 in Zürich, represents a traditional homage to French guests in Central Switzerland. Its massive two-cylinder Escher Wyss steam engine and sleek hull design have made it the fastest lake steamer in Europe, reaching speeds up to 31 km per hour. An elegant Belle Époque dining salon in a French Empire style and a beautiful sun awning make it the perfect choice for intimate events.
Each of these beautiful boats has character and history which help make the voyages as moving and enriching an experience as the cities they connect. With specials like summer brunches to fondue cruises in winter, they combine the culinary and cultural aspects of Switzerland in the best possible way.
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