Colours, flavours, and concepts that make you crave more… Welcome to a gastronomic journey through Sri Lanka.
I love exploring new cuisines, and there is no better destination to do that than Sri Lanka. The island nation has a rich and diverse culinary tradition that is waiting to be discovered. Spicy curries to mouth-watering desserts, Sri Lanka’s culinary culture is rich and varied. While in Sri Lanka, I go on gastronomic adventures and enjoy learning about the different flavours that make up Sri Lankan cuisine.
I meet new people on my trips, who are keen on sharing their knowledge of the island’s food. Whether relaxing on the beach, cooling off in the hills, or exploring the busy streets, food is always a highlight. If you’re planning a trip to Sri Lanka, make sure you include some time to explore local food. You won’t be disappointed!
Try Hoppers with Kiri Hodi in Colombo
I remember my last stay in Colombo quite vividly. I was at the Taj Samudra hotel, where I was introduced to two of Sri Lanka’s most popular dishes — Hoppers and Kiri Hodi. Hoppers are made with stringy vegetables and eggs, while Kiri Hodi is a curry made with coconut milk. I quickly developed a taste for both, and they became my go-to breakfast in Colombo.
Every morning, I watched as the chefs lit the stoves and hand-twisted heated iron pans to make hoppers. I watched in amazement as rice flour beads in the pan transformed into a noodle cake floating around in a creamy white suspension. Another chef used yeast-raised rice and coconut batter to make a savoury crepe with an egg in the centre on a different stove.
I asked the hotel staff what they recommended with hoppers, and they asked me to try Kiri Hodi. I had no idea what it was, but it sounded interesting. When the meal arrived, I was surprised to see that it was a bowl of yellow curry with an amazing aroma. I took a spoonful, and the flavour exploded in my mouth. It was a perfect blend of spice and sweetness, as I tasted the coconut milk and turmeric. The hoppers were light and fluffy and went perfectly with the curry.
If you’re ever in Sri Lanka, I highly recommend trying the Kiri Hodi. If you like your breakfast spicy, try pairing it with flame-coloured coconut sambal.
Tank Fish and Bitter Gourd Salad in Habarana
I never would have guessed that a bitter gourd salad can become my favourite dish. But it did. I first ate it when Ruwan and his family — they own Amba Sewana Resort in Habarana — invited me for a traditional homemade lunch in Habarana. Amba Sewana Resort has a few treehouses, and the family uses only clay pots and a wood fired stove to prepare all the meals in a traditional manner. It is a sustainable approach towards energy efficiency and the meals turn out really delicious due to the earthen flavours.
At the homemade lunch, the salad was a big part of the meal. I was impressed with how they prepared it. They deseeded and sliced the bitter gourd into round pieces before frying them and adding raw chopped onions and tomatoes. I assisted them in the kitchen, piled high with clay stoves and utensils.
Image: Veidehi Gite.
While I helped prep the salad, the family fried the tank fish until it was crispy. Lunch was served with a white potato veggie, Lankan chicken curry, coconut sambal, and pappadam. I was satiated after that meal, but the salad was so good that I just had to keep eating it. Since then, I’ve been making this bitter gourd salad wherever I can as it is the ideal snack for any occasion.
Jackfruit Curry and Todi in Kandy
One August afternoon, beneath a canopy of trees that provided shade from the midday sun, I cooked lunch with the Mahaweli Reach Hotel chefs in Kandy. We were cooking jackfruit and pumpkin curry. The curries laced with grated coconut were reduced to a smooth, golden perfection under the chef’s skilful guidance.
Meanwhile, a toddy tapper brought me fresh Todi — a type of coconut liquor, naturally fermented. Todi is made by tapping the trees twice a day, once in the morning and once before nightfall. Black pepper and vinegared little onions, which complement the flavour of the beverage, were served on the side. Compared to the first time I tried Todi without these accompaniments, the kick was three times stronger!
The jackfruit curry, a traditional dish I had not yet tried, was light, fresh, and bursting with the flavour of curry leaves, which I had grown to appreciate in Sri Lanka. Pumpkin curry, known as ‘Wattakka Curry’ in Sinhalese, is also made with coconut milk and has rich, balanced flavours.
Both curries use coconut milk and turmeric powder as base, and are seasoned with onions and mustard. You won’t even need more dishes to go with your rice as these curries with their creamy sauce fill you up.
Carry Prawns Sushi and Baked Tuna Fish in Arugambay
In October, I had the pleasure of dining at Jetwing Surf in Arugambay, and I was blown away by the food! The eastern coast of Sri Lanka is well-known for its seafood, and the chef prepared a seafood-themed meal on both days of my visit. Two dishes that piqued my interest were Carry Prawns Sushi and Batter-fried Prawns with Baked Tuna Fish.
Carry Prawns Sushi was delicately infused with umami flavours, while the tuna was complemented with battered prawns, yellow rice, and a buttery sauce. The savoury taste of seaweed and soy sauce was one of the reasons it tasted fantastic. The batter-fried prawns were cooked to perfection, and the baked tuna fish was a nice touch. Overall, I was impressed with the meal and recommend Jetwing Surf to anyone looking for a unique stay and dining experience.
Banana Blossom Mellum and Brinjal Moju in Gal Oya
Wild Glamping Gal Oya treated me to a delicious organic lunch in their grass-thatched restaurant. This meal exemplified the freshness of the farm-to-plate dining culture. They cooked me banana bloom (also known as the banana flower), a leafy superfood popular in this area.
Chef Chandan Kumardasa, who could only speak Sinhalese, told me that it was a fresh harvest. They had plucked this purple pendulum from their farm that very morning. “The flower’s centre is white, has a bitter flavour, and has a texture like bamboo shoots and palm hearts,” he explained.
Image: Veidehi Gite.
To reduce the bitterness, he cooked banana blooms with Mallum, fresh coconut, shallots, curry leaves, garlic, green chillies, and spices. The Brinjal (Wambat) Moju, a type of eggplant pickle had fried eggplant strips, shallots, and green chillies. The Moju is then combined with mustard vinegar, giving it a sweet, sour, and spicy flavour. I enjoyed the Banana Blossom Mellum and Brinjal Moju with Vellaappam and Pumpkin Prawns. The combo is delicious!
Sri Lankan Mud Crab Curry in Negombo
The stopover in Negombo (before flying back home) was quite an adventure. The Jetwing Blue hotel was excellent, and the food was even better. I devoured roasted lamb shanks and mud crab curry. I was so happy to get my hands dirty with the crab curry. It was spicy and flavourful, and I could see why it is a local favourite.
The lamb shanks were also tender and flavourful. I also tried Egg Kothu, and I was hooked. This delicacy, made from leftover parotta with the heartiness of sautéed vegetables and scrambled eggs, was my accompaniment.
I travelled across Sri Lanka for 10 days and was astounded by my gastronomic journey. It’s no surprise that global interest in Sri Lankan cuisine is growing. Sri Lanka has so much more to offer in terms of culinary memories. While here, eat well, and live well! Ayubowan.
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