Editor’s Letter — January 27, 2023

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Vernika Awal

Deputy Editor

Have you ever read about or heard of a restaurant, and thought if the superlative praise they were being afforded were actually warranted? Truth be told, many a restaurant — seen from afar — may be difficult to comprehend. Some look too focused on their near-architectural marvel of interiors, while others may come across as artists on plates.

But, what if you were to comprehend the tastes that they produce?

Guava-gin cocktail

It is this that food and hospitality ventures around the world seem to have dawned upon, for the market today is rife with experiments and trysts with niche, celebrated chefs and their global ventures travelling to other venues. Be it Haoma’s eccentric but gorgeous take on the matar kachori, or The Bombay Canteen’s far-out pre-made guava-gin cocktail, these rather niche items on the menu are today travelling around the world — from Bangkok to Delhi, from Mumbai to Bengaluru, and beyond!

This week, we take you through how this could be the ultimate time for you to experience niche pop-ups of iconic restaurants, coming to a cosmopolitan hub near you. From business sense to outreach, these pop-ups are driving in a new dimension to chefs and their ventures.

But what if you’re not in the mood for niche, global cuisines — but something closer to our traditions and childhoods? This week, we’re welcoming spring with Basant Panchami, and the celebratory lunar calendar day that marks the season shift brings with it a host of our absolute favourite foods. Here’s our pick!

Talking of our favourite picks, if you’ve been to Goa, chances are that you have, at least for once, experienced the ‘poee’. On the face of it, the ‘poee’ is a rather humble wheat bread that is nourishing, delicious and affordable by absolutely anyone. Having been introduced into the Goan socio-culinary fabric since the days of Portugal’s rule in the state, it continues to remain of utmost importance even today. This week, we take a look at why the unanimously favourite ‘poee’ continues to reign, even today.

On that note, here’s signing off as the first month of 2023 is already almost past us. Catch you on the other side!