Amit Dixit
Deputy Editor
Ilish or Hilsa has something of a cult following in Bengal and Bangladesh. As someone who grew up in that part of the world, I completely see the point. If only it weren’t for the bones! Of course, no self-respecting Bengali will let something as insignificant as bones get between them and their beloved Hilsa, which they cook in a myriad inventive ways. We are currently in the throes of Hilsa season and Kolkata is replete with food festivals celebrating this delicious fish close to the Bengali heart — and belly. One festival in particular, called ‘Poetry in Cuisine’, being held at the ITC Sonar in Kolkata, caught our eye. The USP? All the dishes on offer have their origins in the Tagore household, which was known to keep the finest tables in its heyday. The Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore himself was a Hilsa lover second to none. The recipes for the festival have all been culled from Purnima Tagore’s legendary cookbook, Thakur Barir Ranna.
Everyone has their own idea of a good time. If it’s Hilsa for the Bengalis, for seasoned drinkers it’s cognac, especially when poured out of a luxury decanter. Our video of the week is a stunning homage to the art of making handmade decanters. These fine decanters from Louis XIII cognac — from the Remy Martin stable — have finally made their way to India. After all, a fine spirit deserves to be appreciated properly.
Also in this week’s newsletter is a whirlwind food tour of Mexico City, a conversation with Chef Sarah Todd and a deep dive into what makes Dal Pakwaan — the iconic Sindhi dish — such a flavour bomb.