Isabella is a new Spanish restaurant that made its debut in Goa offering delightful tapas and homemade vermouth.
If Arati Naik’s life were a film, it would be a heart-warming story about growing up in Mumbai, joining the family’s IT business all the while nurturing a passion for food. In the style of time jumps in ‘K serials’, the film would cut to Goa post-pandemic (it doesn’t exist in people’s minds anymore) with its thriving food scene, and a passionate Naik setting out to realise her dream. The dream being her own restaurant, the Spanish-inspired tapas bar, Isabella’s. Cue the classical guitar as a flamenco dancer takes to the screen, slowly dissipating into an art piece that now adorns the aforementioned recently-launched restaurant.
Devoted to a passion
Isabella’s is the newest restaurant in Goa, setting up base in Panjim in what was once Cluck Tales, and serving Spanish and Portuguese dishes. It may seem a little hidden, but sometimes, good things need a bit of a search. Up a flight of stairs and the sights and sounds of Panjim recede as we are invited to enter the two-storey space. The first impression is warm, and inviting, with muted and calming tones of grey and deep blue, soft lights, printed tiles and comfortable seating. Leann Pereira’s designs put the bar as a centrepiece, with the restaurant unfolding around in small tables with patterned plates and napkins bearing the brand logo.
The restaurant’s name comes from the Spanish equivalent of Arati’s name: Devotion. Isabella’s has been the realisation of Naik’s dream since she was 18-years-old. “I’ve always loved cooking and feeding people. It was during the pandemic that I felt I needed to focus on that passion,” she says. The rumblings of change had already begun before COVID hit the world—Naik quit working for her father and went to the UK to do a course at Leiths School of Food and Wine. The plan was to complete the course and then work at a restaurant in London. The pandemic put paid to that plan, so she returned home. The family moved to Goa and Naik started doing pop ups from her Colva home. “I decided that it was time to realise that dream and the best place to do it would be Goa.”
When Spain meets Goa!
Isabella’s was originally meant to be a tapas and wine bar. Over time, Naik started adding vermouth and sangrias and more. It’s still a tapas bar but the focus is on the homemade vermouth and amari. “A tapas bar should have vermouth and we wanted to make it ourselves. We also want to promote the drink and get more people to try it,” she says. The vermouths are served on the rocks or with some soda and garnishes.
These homemade drinks come to us in delicate glassware, and in cocktails designed (by consultant mixologist Evgenya Prazdnik) to highlight them. Meadow Fizz is a gin cocktail marrying vermouth with elderflower, lime, and a herbal soda. It is dry but mellows down sweetly over time. From the Cockteles en Barrica (barrel-aged cocktails), the Manhattan de la Casa packs a smoky punch, with faintly bitter notes and herbal undertones.
“I want to bring a part of Spain to Goa,” says Naik.
In some cases, that happens literally as Naik sources her chorizo and an intense and crumbly Manchego cheese from Spain. She travels to Portugal regularly and gets her smoked paprika and bacalhau from there. Everything else is locally sourced, with an emphasis on seafood and some familiar Portuguese dishes. “We want to get in more Goans to taste the food, so we have a lot of seafood and things they are comfortable eating,” she explains.
Tantalising tapas
The tapas selection is extensive and features a good number of vegetarian dishes. The tapas come fast and hot. Rissóis de Camarão are crisp turnovers with a creamy filling of prawns given an extra twist with the addition of cilantro. Croquetas de Pollo are slightly one-dimensional and over-salted. The imported chorizo is the star of the Huevos Rotos, paired with wedges and a fried egg for a satisfying dish. The popular Gambas al Ajillo have under-seasoned prawns, elevated by the punchy garlic and olive oil sauce. Almejas con Ajo brings together wine and garlic as a winning base to serve delicately cooked clams in.
The star of the tapas section is that humble fish common to many Goan plates, mackerel. In the Caballa, Patata y Pimiento, we recognise chef Gracian de Souza’s (consultant chef) touch: A beautifully cooked piece of mackerel tail, served butterflied, seasoned, and with a generous helping of garlic and olive oil.
We learned that paella is Naik’s signature dish, a recipe she has perfected over time. It could be that our portion suffered because we requested a smaller one, but the dish came sans the crusty socarrat at the base and with unevenly cooked fish. We give the dish props for using Indian (sourced from Karnataka) rice.
No one messes with Goan food…
There’s no dessert menu as of now because Naik hasn’t found the right ones. But, there are churros for a satisfying end to the meal. Crisp, dusted with cinnamon and sugar, and served with the salted caramel we will be dreaming about for a while.
Isabella’s is a 40-seater space (+10 at the bar) and Naik has made provisions for smaller tables, even keeping options for those who want to dine alone. Through the evening, the music stayed at a low volume, loud enough to be heard but not enough to drown conversation. Service was quick and efficient.
Isabella’s is a cute place for a date night or just a catch up with friends. Order a few rounds of tapas, some homemade vermouth cocktails, and finish the night with some amari.
Naik is hopeful that people will see the space as a valuable addition to a burgeoning hospitality scene in Goa. “It’s good to see so many restaurants here, but I do wish there are different things on offer as it makes dining out more exciting,” she says. Would she want experimentation with Goan food too? Naik shakes her head vehemently. “Goan food should be left on its own.” We raise our glasses of amari and say ‘salud’ to that!
Details: At Isabella’s, First Floor Econ Incrocio, Opposite Don Bosco High School, MG Road, Panjim. Timings: 7.30pm to 11pm (Closed on Monday).
Call: 8805818805
Overall rating: ⭐⭐⭐ ⭐ (Max: 5 stars)
Food: 7.5/10
Drinks: 8/10
Service: 8/10
Interiors/Décor: 9/10
Vibe: 9/10
One dish we loved: Caballa, Patata y Pimiento
One dish that did not work for us: Paella